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The Wave Catcher

The amazing story of Duke Kahanamoku, who helped bring surfing to the world  

Shutterstock.com (Waves, Background); Alamy Stock Photo (Duke Kahanamoku)

Out for a Ride 
Duke Kahanamoku surfs in Hawaii in 1910.

    It was a sunny August day in 1912. People crowded onto a pier in Atlantic City, New Jersey. Everyone was watching the ocean, waiting.

    Down below, a man lay on a long wooden board. He paddled through the water with his arms. A wave curled toward him, growing larger and larger. With a quick hop, the man stood up. He glided along the wave, riding toward the shore.

    At first, the crowd was silent. Was he standing on water? 

    Then everyone started clapping and cheering. For most of them, this was their first time seeing someone surf. They were watching a man from Hawaii named Duke Kahanamoku. And he was on a mission to bring his sport to the world.

    It was 1912. It was a sunny day in August. People crowded onto a pier in Atlantic City, New Jersey. They looked down toward the ocean. 

    They saw a man on a long wooden board. He was lying down. A wave curled toward him. It grew larger. With a quick hop, the man stood up. He rode the wave toward the shore.

    The crowd was silent. Was he standing on water? 

    Then everyone clapped and cheered. Most of them had never seen someone surf before. They were watching Duke Kahanamoku. He was from Hawaii. He wanted to bring his sport to the world.

    It was a sunny August day in 1912 in Atlantic City, New Jersey. People were crowded onto a pier, watching the ocean—and waiting. 

    Down below, a man lying on a long wooden board paddled through the water with his arms. A wave that was growing larger and larger curled toward him. With a quick hop, the man stood up, and then he glided along the wave, riding toward the shore.

    At first, the crowd was silent. Was he standing on water? 

    Then everyone started clapping and cheering. For most of them, this was their first time seeing someone surf. They were watching a man from Hawaii named Duke Kahanamoku. And he was on a mission to bring his sport to the world.

Wave Sliding

    Surfing seemed new and exciting to the crowd in Atlantic City. But in Hawaii, it was nearly 1,000 years old. To Native Hawaiians, surfing was known as he‘e nalu, or wave sliding. They told stories of powerful gods and goddesses who took to the sea on their boards. All kinds of people loved surfing: young and old, rich and poor. 

    But beginning in the late 1700s, people from Europe and the United States started coming to Hawaii. They changed it forever. These outsiders didn’t understand or respect Hawaiian culture—including surfing. They chopped up Hawaiians’ wooden surfboards and turned them into desks for schools.

    Meanwhile, America slowly took control of the islands. The Hawaiian language was banned from schools. Hula dancing was forbidden. In 1898, the U.S. government officially added Hawaii as an American territory.

    Surfing was new to the crowd in Atlantic City. But in Hawaii, it was nearly 1,000 years old. To Native Hawaiians, surfing was known as he‘e nalu, or wave sliding. They told stories of gods and goddesses who rode the waves. Everyone loved surfing: young and old, rich and poor. 

    But in the late 1700s, people from Europe and the United States started coming to Hawaii. They changed it forever. They didn’t understand or respect Hawaiian culture. They chopped up Hawaiians’ wooden surfboards. They turned them into desks for schools.

    America slowly took control of the islands. The Hawaiian language was banned from schools. Hula dancing was forbidden. In 1898, the U.S. government officially made Hawaii an American territory.

    For the crowd in Atlantic City, surfing seemed new and exciting. But in Hawaii, it was nearly 1,000 years old. Surfing was known as he‘e nalu, or wave sliding, to Native Hawaiians. They told stories of powerful gods and goddesses who took to the sea on their boards. All kinds of people loved surfing: young and old, rich and poor. 

    But beginning in the late 1700s, people from Europe and the United States started coming to Hawaii, changing it forever. These outsiders didn’t understand or respect Hawaiian culture—including surfing. They chopped up Hawaiians’ wooden surfboards and turned them into desks for schools.

    Meanwhile, America slowly took control of the islands. The Hawaiian language was banned from schools, and hula dancing was forbidden. In 1898, the U.S. government officially added Hawaii as an American territory.

Keystone/Getty Images

Surf Stunts
Surfers perform tricks in Hawaii sometime around 1960.

Using His Fame

    But surfing did not die out. Duke Kahanamoku was born in 1890. He grew up surfing after school. He lived in Honolulu, Hawaii’s largest city. 

    Kahanamoku first got famous as a swimmer. Dragging a 114-pound surfboard through the water had made him strong. At the 1912 Summer Olympic Games, he became the first Native Hawaiian athlete to win an Olympic medal.

    After that, Kahanamoku was invited to show off his swimming skills. He visited pools and beaches across the U.S. Back then, many Americans could not point to Hawaii on a map. So Kahanamoku became a kind of ambassador for his beautiful islands. He decided to use his fame to bring surfing to America. 

    That’s how Kahanamoku ended up in Atlantic City in the summer of 1912. As he toured the country, kids and teens were inspired. They wanted to try surfing for themselves. The sport slowly became popular across the U.S.

    But surfing did not die out. Duke Kahanamoku was born in 1890. He grew up surfing after school. He lived in Honolulu. That’s Hawaii’s largest city. 

    Kahanamoku first got famous as a swimmer. Handling a 114-pound surfboard had made him strong. He won a medal at the 1912 Summer Olympic Games. He was the first Native Hawaiian athlete to win one.

    After that, Kahanamoku was invited to show off his swimming skills. He visited places across the U.S. Back then, many Americans could not point to Hawaii on a map. So Kahanamoku became a kind of ambassador for his beautiful islands. He wanted to use his fame to bring surfing to America. 

    That’s why he was in Atlantic City in 1912. As he toured the country, kids and teens were inspired. They wanted to surf. The sport slowly became popular across the U.S.

    But surfing did not die out. Duke Kahanamoku, who was born in 1890, grew up surfing after school. He lived in Honolulu, Hawaii’s largest city. 

    Dragging a 114-pound surfboard through the water made Kahanamoku strong, and he first became famous as a swimmer. At the 1912 Summer Olympic Games, he became the first Native Hawaiian athlete to win an Olympic medal.

    After that, Kahanamoku was invited to show off his swimming skills at pools and beaches across the U.S. Back then, many Americans could not locate Hawaii on a map, so Kahanamoku became a kind of ambassador for his beautiful islands. He decided to use his fame to bring surfing to America. 

    That’s how Kahanamoku ended up in Atlantic City in the summer of 1912. As he toured the country, kids and teens were inspired. They wanted to try surfing for themselves, and the sport slowly became popular across the U.S.

Surf Crazy 

Shutterstock.com (Beach); Alpha Historica/Alamy Stock Photo (Duke Kahanamoku)

This photo of Kahanamoku was taken around 1912. His surfboard is made of wood!

    By the 1940s, America was going surf crazy. In California, sunny beaches were packed with surfers. They played Hawaiian instruments called ukuleles. They goofed around between rides. To them, surfing was more than a sport. It was about letting go of your worries. It was about feeling close to nature. It was about just having fun, dude. 

    Over the years, the surfing lifestyle made its way into pop culture. At the movies, people loved a teenage surfer girl named Gidget. A band called the Beach Boys sang about the joys of “Surfin’ U.S.A.” By the end of the 1960s, even a kid in Kansas probably dreamed about surfing.

    By the 1940s, America was going surf crazy. In California, the beaches were packed with surfers. They played Hawaiian instruments called ukuleles. They goofed around between rides. To them, surfing was more than a sport. It was about letting go of your worries. It was about feeling close to nature. It was about having fun, dude. 

    The surfing lifestyle made its way into pop culture. People loved movies about a surfer girl named Gidget. They loved a Beach Boys song called “Surfin’ U.S.A.” By the end of the 1960s, even a kid in Kansas probably dreamed about surfing.

    By the 1940s, America was going surf crazy. In California, sunny beaches were packed with surfers. They played Hawaiian instruments called ukuleles and goofed around between rides. To them, surfing was more than a sport. It was about letting go of your worries, feeling close to nature, and just having fun, dude. 

    Over the years, the surfing lifestyle made its way into pop culture. At the movies, people loved a teenage surfer girl named Gidget. A band called the Beach Boys sang about the joys of “Surfin’ U.S.A.” By the end of the 1960s, even a kid in Kansas probably dreamed about surfing.

Jim McMahon/Mapman ®

A Surfer's Paradise
Hawaii is made up of eight main islands in the Pacific Ocean. It is thousands of miles from any other land. This makes it perfect for surfing. There is nothing to stop waves from growing tall and powerful.

Aloha 

    In 1959, Hawaii became our 50th state. Kahanamoku was named the new state’s Ambassador of Aloha. (Aloha is a Hawaiian word. It has many meanings, including “love” and “welcome.”) He greeted celebrities and world leaders who visited the islands. 

    Kahanamoku died in 1968. Sadly, he never got to see surfing become an Olympic sport. That happened in 2021. Carissa Moore won a gold medal for Team USA. She was born and raised in Kahanamoku’s beloved Hawaii.

    Surely that would have made the Ambassador of Aloha proud. 

    In 1959, Hawaii became our 50th state. Kahanamoku was named the new state’s Ambassador of Aloha. (Aloha is a Hawaiian word. It has many meanings. Two are “love” and “welcome.”) He greeted famous people who visited the islands. 

    Kahanamoku died in 1968. Sadly, surfing had not yet become an Olympic sport. That happened in 2021. Carissa Moore won a gold medal for Team USA. She was born and raised in Kahanamoku’s beloved Hawaii.

    Surely, the Ambassador of Aloha would have been proud. 

    In 1959, Hawaii became our 50th state. Kahanamoku was named the new state’s Ambassador of Aloha. (Aloha is a Hawaiian word that has many meanings, including “love” and “welcome.”) He greeted celebrities and world leaders who visited the islands. 

    Kahanamoku died in 1968. Sadly, he never got to see surfing become an Olympic sport. That happened in 2021, when Carissa Moore won a gold medal for Team USA. She was born and raised in Kahanamoku’s beloved Hawaii.

    Her victory would surely have made the Ambassador of Aloha proud. 

The Record Breaker

Duke Kahanamoku brought surfing to the world. Now Carissa Moore is pushing the limits of the sport.

Tony Heff/World Surf League via Getty Images

Carissa Moore is an exciting competitor—and has inspired many girls to start surfing!

    Her board cuts through the ocean like a knife. She rides the wave’s curves effortlessly. Suddenly, she and her board are flying. She spins around and lands back on the bright blue water. The crowd goes wild! They just saw Carissa Moore, one of the world’s best surfers, catch some serious air.

    Moore was 5 years old the first time her dad put her on a board. “I was immediately hooked,” she remembers. She went pro when she was 12. At 18, she became the youngest person to win a surfing world title. Moore also made history when she won the first-ever gold medal in surfing at the Olympics in 2021. 

    How did Moore rise to the top of the sport so quickly? She grew up in Hawaii. “The ocean is my happy place,” she says. When her parents got divorced, 10-year-old Moore looked forward to her time with her dad. Why? He lived close to the beach. 

    Like many young surfers, Moore is inspired by Duke Kahanamoku. She is proud to have won the first Olympic gold medal in surfing as a Native Hawaiian. “This was Duke’s dream, for surfing to be in the Olympics,” she said after winning. “I wanted to make Hawaii proud.” 

    Her board cuts through the ocean like a knife. She rides the wave effortlessly. Suddenly, she and her board are flying. She spins around. She lands back on the water. The crowd goes wild! They just saw Carissa Moore catch some serious air. She is one of the world’s best surfers.

    Moore was 5 years old the first time she surfed. “I was immediately hooked,” she says. She went pro when she was 12. At 18, she became the youngest person to win a surfing world title. She also won the first-ever gold medal in surfing at the Olympics in 2021. 

    How did Moore rise to the top so quickly? She grew up in Hawaii. When her parents got divorced, 10-year-old Moore looked forward to her time with her dad. Why? He lived near the beach. 

    Like many young surfers, Moore is inspired by Duke Kahanamoku. She is proud to have won the first Olympic gold medal in surfing as a Native Hawaiian. “This was Duke’s dream, for surfing to be in the Olympics,” she said. “I wanted to make Hawaii proud.” •

    Her board cuts through the ocean like a knife. She rides the wave’s curves effortlessly. Suddenly she and her board are flying, and she spins around. As she lands back on the bright blue water, the crowd goes wild! They just saw Carissa Moore—one of the world’s best surfers—catch some serious air. 

    Moore was 5 years old the first time her dad put her on a board. “I was immediately hooked,” she recalls. She went pro at age 12, and at 18 she became the youngest person to win a surfing world title. Moore made history again in 2021 when she won the first-ever gold medal in surfing at the Olympics. 

    How did Moore rise to the top of the sport so quickly? She grew up in Hawaii. “The ocean is my happy place,” she explains. When her parents got divorced, 10-year-old Moore looked forward to her time with her dad because he lived close to the beach.

    Like many young surfers, Moore is inspired by Duke Kahanamoku. She is proud to have won the first Olympic gold medal in surfing as a Native Hawaiian. “This was Duke’s dream, for surfing to be in the Olympics,” she said after winning. “I wanted to make Hawaii proud.” 

Ryu Yamane and Andrew Tran

Local Legends 
An artist painted a 150-foot mural of Moore and Kahanamoku in Honolulu, Hawaii.

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