A Global Food   
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How Pizza Came to America

Frank Mastro helped turn an Italian dish into an American classic. So why have you never heard of him

Slideshow

    It was the early 1930s, and the United States was in the middle of the Great Depression. Millions of people didn’t have jobs. Families were starving. 

    In New York City, Frank Mastro saw his community of Italian Americans struggling. Mastro owned a shop that sold restaurant supplies. He knew there must be something he could do to help. But what?

    And then an idea came to him.

    Pizza!

Pizza Problems

    Today, America eats more pizza than any other country350 slices per second! But in the 1930s, most people in the U.S. had never heard of it. Pizza was sold only in Italian bakeries and grocery stores. 

    Mastro had come to New York with his family when he was 10. He remembered the delicious pizzas he ate as a kid in Italy. These crisp circles of dough were topped with tangy tomatoes and gooey cheese. He knew that if more Americans tasted pizza, they would love it.

    But Mastro believed pizza was more than just a tasty treat. He thought pizza could save his community. Running a pizzeria would be a way for families to make money. Plus, pizza would be a perfect cheap option to eat for dinner!

    There was one problem, though. Making pizza was a total pain.

The Pizza King

    In the 1930s, pizza was baked in a huge oven the size of an elephant. These ovens were heated with coal. They took hours to get hot. And a baker had to constantly watch over the pizza. Otherwise, it might burst into flames.

    To make his pizza dreams come true, Mastro knew what he needed to do. He needed to invent a better oven. 

    After a few months, Mastro’s new oven was ready. It was powered by cheap gas. It baked multiple pizzas in minutes. And anyone could use it. Perfect!

    Except when Mastro tried to sell his ovens, no one wanted to buy one. Italian bakers said pizza wouldn’t taste right if it wasn’t made the usual way—in a coal oven.

    Mastro was frustrated. But he didn’t give up. Instead, he opened Frank Mastro’s Model Pizzeria. There, a chef made pizzas in front of a huge window for all to see. Mastro invited anybody to come in and try a slice. Before long, business was booming.

    Mastro did more than just sell ovens. He also helped hundreds of families start their own pizzerias. He gave them the recipe for perfect pies. Sometimes he even let people borrow money to get their businesses up and running. 

    Over the next 20 years, the number of pizzerias in America went from 500 to 20,000. And Mastro became known as “The Pizza King.” 

Bettmann/Getty Images (Line); Courtesy of the Mastro Family (Oven)

Frank mastro’s pizza plan 
Left: People line up for free food during the Great Depression.
Above: Mastro makes pizza in the oven he invented. He hoped pizza could be a cheap dinner option for struggling families.

All-American Food

    By the time Mastro died in 1957, pizza could be found all over the East Coast. That’s when Frank’s son, Vinnie, took over the family business. But Vinnie died suddenly in 1965and the Mastro business died with him. Soon, the family name was forgotten.

    Still, Mastro’s legacy lives on. Nearly anywhere you go in America today, you can find pizza.

    You can grab a thin-crust slice in New York City for $2.75. In Chicago, you can dig into a deep-dish pie with mozzarella and sausage. In Detroit, you can enjoy a rectangular slice with the tomato sauce on top of the cheese.

    “My father used to say that pizza would become as popular as the hot dog,” Mastro’s daughter Madeline said. “Nobody believed him. Now I say, ‘Do you see, Dad? You were right.’”

Sushi Takes Over

How a Japanese businessman got Americans to eat raw fish 

photobeps/Shutterstock.com (Fishes); gresei/Shutterstock.com (Chopsticks); Rido/Shutterstock.com (Sushi)

    In 1964, Japanese businessman Noritoshi Kanai [kuh-NYE] arrived in Los Angeles, California. He knew he could be a success in America. He just needed to convince Americans to fall in love with sushia Japanese dish of raw fish and sticky rice.

    There was one problem, though: Most Americans thought raw fish was gross

    But the 1960s were a time of change. Faster, cheaper air travel meant more Americans could visit faraway countries. These travelers came home with a taste for “exotic” foods. 

    Kanai thought the time was right to put sushi on American plates. So he went to a Japanese restaurant owner in L.A. with his big idea: Add a sushi bar. A sushi bar is a place where people can order sushi and watch the chef make it. 

    At first, the owner was sure no one would come. But word got out. Japanese people flocked to the sushi bar. And they brought their American friends with them. Soon, sushi restaurants opened in L.A., New York City, and Chicago. 

    Today, you can find sushi just about anywhere in the U.S. Many places have even put their own spin on it. The California roll uses avocado instead of raw tuna. The Philadelphia roll combines cream cheese, smoked salmon, and cucumber. 

    Kanai died in 2017 at age 94. But before his death, he proudly walked the streets of L.A. The city now has more than 3,800 sushi restaurants. 

    His dream had come true.

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